Cindy's Spain/France/Switzerland adventure 2026

Days 1-2 in Barcelona

May 27-29

Our travel day went well – no glitches, just had to sit in Chicago for 6 hours. Our flight was easy – a little over 8 hours to Barcelona – but it was overnight. Neither of us sleep well on an airplane. We arrived in Barcelona and waited in line for at least an hour – with about 500 other people, easily – to get through customs, but we came out the other side and our driver was waiting for us to take us to our hotel.

Our hotel doesn’t have an elevator, but it does have air conditioning – thank goodness. It’s right on Placa Reial , which was built in the mid-19th century on the site of a demolished Capuchin monastery. Designed by architect Francesc Daniel Molina I Casamajo, the neoclassical square was originally intended to exalt the Spanish monarchy but evolved into a vibrant hub of bohemian culture and nightlife. And indeed it is a hub of nightlife! We were given ear plugs when checking into our room. 

An earlier history of where Placa Reial now stands: is was the site of the Viladalls brothel, the only one that could legally operate in the city. The establishment gave its name to the street that ran alongside it, which from the 14^th century was renamed Carrer del Vidre, on account of the glass foundry set up there. Once the brothel and foundry had gone, and following the Spanish War of Succession, Capuchin monks were offered the land, who had lost their home in the fighting. The convent that was built was dedicated to Santa Madrona and opened in 1723, with an entrance on the Rambla. If interested, you can explore more of its history at: https://www.barcelona.cat/metropolis/en/contents/the-rise-fall-and-revival-the-placa-reial

The Placa Reial is just off Le Rambla, which is Barcelona’s most famous tree-lined pedestrian boulevard that is less than a mile from Placa de Catalunya in the center down to the Christopher Columbus Monument at the port. Yes – a Christopher Columbus Monument. Columbus, an Italian, completed four Spanish transatlantic voyages in the name of Catholic Monarchs. And we know how that went – I told our driver that we had pretty much removed all of America’s statues to Columbus. Ha. 

Anywho, along the La Rambla boulevard is Gran Teatre del Liceu, Barcelona's renowned opera house and the La Boqueria Market, a world-famous, bustling public market offering fresh produce, tapas, and local delicacies. We will be going to the market Sunday morning.

Unfortunately, the city council is executing a major, ongoing redevelopment project to make the avenue greener, more accessible, and culturally focused. It’s a totally mess and not easy to navigate on foot or in a vehicle. You can visit the https://www.barcelona.cat/larambla/en to see details of the ongoing transformations, if interested.

Our first day was pretty uneventful. We checked into the hotel, got a nap then went to eat. Luis at the hotel recommended a local tapas bar. We came back to the hotel and crashed.

Our second day was spent doing Park Guell and Sagrada Familia – both of which are associated with Antoni Gaudi. Gaudi was a Catalan architect and designer, widely known as the greatest exponent of Catalan Modernisme. Catalan Modernism was a cultural and artistic movement that flourished in Catalonia – primarily Barcelona – between 1888 and 1911. It was more than a reginional take on European Art Nouveau; it was an expression of Catalan identity, driven by an affluent bourgeoisis seeking to celebrate their cultural heritage through nature-inspired highlight decorative architecture and design.

Can’t say that it’s aesthetically appealing, but it is interesting. The history of Park Guell was interesting – it was commissioned in 1900 by wealthy industrialist Eusebi Guell an designed by Gaudi. It originally was envisioned as a utopian, high-end British-style “garden city” for Barcelona’s elite – but the residential housing project failed. It was abandoned in 1914 and purchased by the Barcelona City Council. It opened as a municipal park in 1926. It is kind of whimsical – it has magic mushrooms and a gingerbread house inspired by the Hansel and Gretel story. Some celebrate it for its perfect harmony between nature and architecture (something akin to Frank Lloyd Wright, I guess), featuring vibrant, colorful mosaics, undulated organic structures and really nice panoramic views of the city and the Mediterranean.

Sagrada Familia is a basilica – UNTIL next week when Pope Leo is visiting Barcelona and consecrating the structure as a church. What is standing today is nothing like the original design for the project by diocesan architect Francisco de Paula del Villar with neo-Gothic elements. The cornerstone was laid in spring of 1882. Gaudi took over the design in 1883, who took the project in a totally different direction.

Read about the history – it’s actually fascinating; and our guide pointed out details that only a good Catholic would know in terms of Christianity’s characters, motifs, stories. The space inside is glorious with beautiful stained-glass windows (none depicting any Christian symbols etc.), and pillars holding up the roof that Gaudi designed as trees. The nature motif also was evident.

We went on a tour during the “golden hour, and it was so rewarding!. The basilica is bathed in light – see the photos. Opposite the way of orange/red colors (which represents sunset) are glass windows of blues that represent sunrise.

It was pretty spectacular, and we were so glad we chose the “Golden Hour” tour.

It was a long, tiring day but well worth it.

BTW, sticking to our adventure principles, we took the bus and subway to get around town to experience the local flavor. The subway here is par excellent – new, modern underground with no trash and the subway cars are clean and bright. The bus, well, it was a bus that included a group of teenage boys for a good portion of the ride. Need I say more? 